Phu Yen

Phu Yen: Vietnam’s Rising Star of Coastal Beauty

If Quy Nhon is Vietnam’s best-kept secret, Phu Yen is the secret that even Quy Nhon tourists have not discovered yet. This coastal province midway between Nha Trang and Quy Nhon offers some of the most dramatic and unspoiled scenery in the country: a coastline of granite headlands, hidden coves, and fishing villages where coracles are still the primary fishing vessel. The 2017 film I See Yellow Flowers on the Green Grass (Tam Cam), filmed in Phu Yen, briefly thrust the province into domestic consciousness, but foreign tourism remains minimal.

The provincial capital, Tuy Hoa, is a quiet administrative city with a handful of hotels and restaurants. The real attractions lie along the coast: the Ganh Da Dia basalt rock formations, the Mui Dien cape (Vietnam’s easternmost point), and the Bai Xep fishing village that has become a low-key backpacker enclave. For travelers with time, a motorbike, and tolerance for basic infrastructure, Phu Yen is a revelation.

Top Attractions

• Ganh Da Dia: Vietnam’s most striking geological formation: thousands of hexagonal basalt columns stacked like a giant’s organ pipes along the coast. The columns formed from ancient volcanic activity and have been sculpted by waves into a surreal landscape. Sunrise and sunset offer the best light for photography.
• Mui Dien (Dai Lanh Cape): The easternmost point of mainland Vietnam, marked by a lighthouse on a headland above the South China Sea. The sunrise here is the first in the country, and the coastal road approaching the cape is spectacular.
• Bai Xep: A tiny fishing village 15 km south of Tuy Hoa with a crescent beach, granite boulders, and a handful of rustic homestays and cafes. The atmosphere is deeply chilled, with bonfires on the beach and guitar music at night.
• O Loan Lagoon: A brackish lagoon famous for its blood cockles (sò huyết), which are harvested and served grilled with scallion oil at roadside stalls around the water’s edge.
• Nhan Mountain & Cham Towers: A hilltop with a 12th-century Cham temple and panoramic views over Tuy Hoa and the coast. The climb is short and the sunset views are excellent.

Coastal Scenery & Driving

The coastal road from Tuy Hoa north to Ganh Da Dia and south to Bai Xep is one of Vietnam’s great motorcycle journeys. The route passes fishing villages where round bamboo coracles are pulled ashore, salt fields that shimmer white in the sun, and stretches of empty beach backed by casuarina forest. There is virtually no tourist development, and the only traffic is local motorbikes and delivery trucks.

The Da Rang River estuary near Tuy Hoa creates a landscape of sandbars, mangroves, and fishing weirs that is exceptionally photogenic at dawn when mist rises from the water.

Food & Dining

Phu Yen’s cuisine is defined by its proximity to the ocean. Banh hoi long heo (rice vermicelli with pork offal) is the local breakfast specialty, available at stalls around Tuy Hoa’s morning market. O Loan blood cockles, grilled over charcoal with scallion oil and peanuts, are the province’s most famous dish — seek them at the lagoon-side stalls near O Loan Bridge.

Banh canh (thick rice noodle soup with crab or fish) is another standout. The local version uses a rich, slightly sweet broth and fresh-caught seafood. Restaurants in Tuy Hoa are basic but honest; the best meals are often found at roadside seafood grills along the coastal highway.

Best Time to Visit

March–May and September–November offer dry weather and calm seas. The summer months (June–August) are hot but the beaches are empty. Avoid October–December when the northeast monsoon brings heavy rain and rough seas.

Getting There & Around

Tuy Hoa Airport has limited domestic flights from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. The train station is on the reunification line (5 hours from Nha Trang, 7 hours from Quy Nhon). Buses connect to all major cities. A motorbike ($7/day) is essential for exploring the coast.

Where to Stay

Tuy Hoa has functional mid-range hotels ($25–$50). Bai Xep has rustic beach bungalows and homestays ($15–$30) with a laid-back backpacker vibe. There is no luxury accommodation in Phu Yen.

Insider Tips

• Ride a motorbike from Tuy Hoa to Ganh Da Dia at sunrise (depart 4:30 AM). The early light on the basalt columns is extraordinary, and you will have the site to yourself.
• Stay in Bai Xep for at least two nights. The village atmosphere — fishing boats at dawn, bonfires at night, fresh seafood grilled on the beach — is the real Phu Yen experience.
• The blood cockle season is March–June. Outside these months, the cockles are smaller and less flavorful.

Final Word: Phu Yen is for travelers who have seen the major destinations and want something genuinely unexplored. The scenery rivals Ha Long Bay and the beaches rival Phu Quoc, but the infrastructure is minimal and the crowds are nonexistent. Bring patience, a motorbike, and a sense of adventure.